


You meet the nicest people with a palette!!
Since Spring has arrived, it is time to do those "Spring &
Summer projects"! How about painted on some Clay Pots?
To avoid peeling paint, follow the instructions below.
.
1) DO NOT SEAL the pot BEFORE PAINTING. The paint needs the tooth of
the tera cotta surface. I have used both Delta, Patio and
Americana paints. The ones I sealed---peeled.
The ones I didn't seal first, have held up now for 2 yrs plus.
2) Clean the pots with a damp rag or if you actually wash them like you
do
dishes, you HAVE TO LET THEM DRY FOR SEVERAL DAYS.r you can wash
them, but then the best is to dry them in the oven.
Ours often come dirty, full of dust, sand, earth and more... so I put
them into lukewarm water and start scubbing them with a dishwashing
brush, after that let them drip dry and put them into the COLD oven.
Turn the oven to 320 F and then
turn it off after 30 min. Then let the pots cool down in the oven,
there is no moisture left over and it does not take longer than an
hour - six pots fit perfectly into my oven. During the time the
pots cure, I set up the painting table, prepare the palette etc. so no
time is lost. Or I do it at night. The clue here is you want NO
moisture trapped behind the paint.
3) When you finish painting let it dry again for at least a day. This allows everything to "mature".
4) Varnish with INTERIOR/EXTERIOR varnish. I use a good
varnish and have had no
problems. The big thing here is to varnish inside and out and
don't forget that little hole in the bottom. I usualy give the
pots at least 2 sometimes 3 coats. But leave absolutely no area
unvarnished.
My pots have been washed, had flowers planted right in them with and
without liners and so far the only peelers I have found are those ones
I sealed first. I even tried the so called terra cotta sealers
and I was not as impressed as I have been with good old fashion
Interior/Exterior Varnish. Make sure it is Interior and Exterior
cause there is a difference.

1. When painting a subject in acrylics: remember to use soft brushes when painting soft things (clouds, flowers, faces, etc.) and stiff brushes for things like (rocks, wood, weeds, etc.) You can use sponges, saran wrap, your fingers, rags and anything that works for effect. There are many brushes including "rake", "hake", "fan" and many others. You must learn when these can be of special use to you. They can many times save you a lot of time. You will notice the cost is always more than a lot of brushes, but always worth it.
2. To prepare a project for painting - saws should be void of all rust. I remove handles, soak all the little parts in "Cider vinegar", sand the blades, then clean with cider vinegar. Now spray with a "rust proof " paint. If the blade has cracks, pock marks or extreme flaws, I fill with spackling compound, lightly sand, then apply 2 coats of Gesso. First going in one direction, make sure it is dry, then the other direction. Be sure to spray with a fixative spray before you paint. Now it is ready to paint. Spray your painting when done with a fixative spray or use a brush on but watch for streaks.
3. To prepare a wood item for painting
-
I like to clean the wood, sand all rough places,
fill any cracks or holes with "wood
filler"
After dry, lightly sand. I will Gesso if it is going to be
painted
on the whole surface or at least where the picture will go. Be
sure
to spray with a fixative spray before you paint, then again after the
painting
is complete.
Instructions for Lining Boxes
1. Measure the height of your box, trunk or container and the whole
circumference.
2. Add 1/2" to the long side of the fabric and 3/4 " to the short one
and cut the lining for the sides.
3. Iron the fabric, if it's very soft, use a little spray starch.
4. Fold 1/2" of fabric on ONE OF the long and short sides under and
iron it.
5. Now apply a little glue around the upper rim of the box.Try to use a
glue that will dry clear and not leave stains on the fabric.
There is a glue called "stichless" (made by Delta) that works.
6. Now press the "neat" edge of the fabric (the one with the ironed
seam) against the box. Start at what is the back of the box for you
with the part of the lining that does not have an ironed back seam on
the short edge.
7. Press the lining with your fingers against the box. It normally
holds well, as Stichless not only dries clear but as well grabs fast.
In boxes with difficult shapes (like a star erc.) you can fold a little
piece of white paper over the rim and then put a clothespin or bulldog
clip there for a few minutes; even a paperclip can do the job.
8. Once you have the upper rim fastened to the box, you *can* spot glue
the overlap of the short if neededt.
9-. No need to glue the lower end of the lining, this will be
held down by the padded bottom.
10. Cut a piece of cardboard about 1/4" smaller than the inner bottom
of the box. If you have problems measuring it, cut it 1/2" smaller than
the contour line, you can trace from the outer bottom.
11. With any white glue (but I normally continue using Stitchless),
glue a little batting on the cardboard. This should be very thin
batting and be about 1/8" smaller than the cardboard.
12 Cut the bottom shape from the fabric, make it 3/4" larger than the
cardboard base. Mark the cardboard base on the fabric and then snip
about every 1/2" into the fabric to be able to overlap on the back.
13. Put the fabric upside down on a table, place the padded cardboard
on top of it, apply a little glue to the back of the cardboard and
start pressing the fabric overlap on the cardboard.
14. Let the padded cardboard bottom into the box, it will snuggle right
into place. If for some reason there is a larger space between the
padded bottom and the sides, you like to cover, apply a few very small
beads of Stichless glue and
then place there a satin cord, ribbon or beads covering the "mating" of
the ends with a little bow. Make this bow separately, to have it
neat on top of the ends.
15. If you like - it looks wonderful - apply a few beads of glue around
the upper edge of the box and place there a tiny lace, eylet trim or
string of pearls.
On this page, I will go over many of these questions and try to give you answers that will make your painting easier and much more enjoyable. Bear with me since this all takes time. I'm sure you realize that I would much rather be painting!!
If you have a question about painting an item....send me an e-mail and I will try to answer it directly for you.
Judi Pearl Pulaski - e-mail me
at
raccoonridge@hotmal.com or raccoonridge@artlover.com
Note: I am a Kidney
Transplant recipiant! Luckily for me my brother loved me enough
to
give me the gift of life. Many people are not that lucky and need
to depend on families to donate their organs here on earth instead of
taking
them to heaven. - - - - - - - - - -
To think of others in our
hours of grief and
sorrow is truly compassionate and selfless. Please
consider the gift of life -
organ and tissue
donation. Support this gift in the spirit of
love and generosity.
Remember to discuss your
feelings about donation with your family.
- - - - - - - - - -
We all recognize the life-giving benefits of
organ and tissue donation. Take a moment to discuss organ and tissue
donation
with your family.
- - - - - - - - - -
Over 40,000 people nationwide currently wait
for a life-saving organ transplant and hundreds of thousands are in
need
of a life-enhancing tissue transplant. For many, the chance to live a
full
life won't come unless all of us consider organ and tissue donation.
Discuss
organ and tissue donation after worship with your family and friends.
- - - - -
- - - - -
Signing the
back of your driver's license is
not enough! It is important to discuss your wishes
about organ
and tissue donation with your family.
Visit
http://www.transplantwi.org - go to Our
Stories I have written about my journey.
- Judi