Below
is a bell that I first did "gold etching"
on
the top and around the rim. The etching
was fired at 016, then the gold was added and fired again. Painted
the
scene all the way around.
The covered bridge
is
one from Parke County, Indiana in Mansfield.
I
like to paint places where I have been. It took a total of
approximately 6 fires to complete.
What
is China
Painting?
In
1980, the 96th Congress of the Unite States declared Porcelain Art a
fine
art.
China
painting is the fine art form achieved by the application of overglaze
colors
to
a glazed china blank or porcelain. The china or porcelain is then
fired in a kiln
(1333
to 1530'F) thus making the painting permanent.
Overglaze
colors (china paints) are powder paints composed of minerals and flux.
A
medium of oil is used to grind the paints. Another medium is used
as the vehicle
to
apply the paint with a brush to the article being painted.
The
flux in the china paints helps to lower the melting point below that of
the glaze
to
which it is applied. The flux causes the paints to melt with the
fired on glaze of
the
object being painted. It can take from one to seven or more
firings
to complete
the
painting. The number of firings depends on the painter and the
technique
used,
but
can usually be finished in three to four firings.

To Convert
OVERGLAZE
paints into MATT PAINTS -You
will need a "matting agent"such
as
mattversatz
or zinc oxide (Desitin for babies works). You mix 2/3 china
paints
to 1/3 matting agent. If you are using high gold content colors
like
purples and pinks, the proportions would be
1/2
china paint and 1/2 matting agent.
PAINTING
WITH REDS-
Many times reds have tendencies to fire out! How
frustrating!!
I suggest you fire them a little cooler at 018 or 019 cone and leave
the
liln vented... When you apply the reds, you also want to paint a
little heavier and use less oil to paint. I like to paint
relatively
dry anyway, this eliminates the problems with runs no matter what
medium
you may use.
Backgrounds can be applied first - by tinting the porcelain with white or light ivory. This will give the piece tooth to work for the second fire followed by colors placed in strategic areas to enhance the subject. When using this technique, use as large a brush as possible. Add more medium to the paint to make it workable. Put the paint on as smooth as possible working in small area at a time. Hold your brush way back on the handle and with as light a stroke as possible, pull the paint toward you off the porcelain. This will eliminate streaks. Keep working this way until it is complete. Then take a silk filled with fiberfill and pat until desired effect. Fire at 014-016 cone.
Shaping subjects with background: After the subject has been painted, we will then frame with color by using the comma, dot and dash strokes. The colors are then filtered and feathered to soften and remove definite lines. This again will involve working with your brush with a very light touch and sometimes patting softly with silk or I find I like athletic sponge that you can buy in the drug store. When using silk or sponge, be sure to go from the lightest to the darkest and use clean spots on the silk or sponge.
Shadowy effect: In order to create the illusion of depth, the colors become more grayed as they move away from the focal point. Colors are not used at full strength and are "grayed" by gradual addition of the complement or mixture o colors on the brush. In other words - don't be so quick to always clean the brush when you want to gray the colors. When you mix green/red or purple/yellow or blue/orange you will get a "greyed" color. If you mix all the colors on your palette, you will get a shadow color to use for leaves, etc.
The darker areas of the background go behind and underneath the lightest spot to keep the center of interest or subject. When the subject has been done it is a good idea to carry colors in three different areas - a triangle of color. Then go in an put "punches" - "ticks" and all kinds of funny little words you will hear china painting teachers use. The idea is to help that center of interest stand up and take notice!
If your background dries too quickly before you have time to blend the colors, add few drops of lavender oil or add a drop of clove oil to your medium.
Do
not
forget shadow work in the background - Look for three dimensions:
FOREGROUND;
main subject MIDDLE GROUND: shadow area
BACKGROUND:
atmosphere
Decide
from which side the light is falling and deepen shadows in the proper
places.
The
source of light in a painting may come from any direction as long as it
is consistent.
If a flower, leaf or any portion of your design "jumps out at you", you can move it back by washing the background color over it.
Generally
the same colors are repeated in the background that were used in the
painting.
Use
each color in the background in 3 different places and in 3 different
shapes
or sizes.
Add
shadows
while the background is still wet for a softer effect.
NEVER
paint the background up to the flower and stop. Very faintly
bring
in your color to the flower in the shadow areas. Your foliage is
much prettier when it has background to support it and this is achieved
through filtering.
Red or yellow mixed with copenhagen blue gives a warm tint on foliage when the sun is shining through.
Pink over fired yellow gives a beautiful peachy glow.

When mixing the colors yourself, you will acquire self confidence and knowledge about the china colors. Test fire to see the results.
Violet
of
Iron:
1/2 Ruby & 1/2 Brown
Violet
of
Iron:
Dull Red & Dark Blue
Violet
of
Iron:
Rich Brown & Banding Blue
Yellow
Green:
1/2 Mixing Yellow & 1/2 Apple Green
Green
Gold:
1/2 Yellow Green & 1/2 Yellow Brown
Apple
Green:
Turquoise & Chartreuse
Moss
Green:
Chartreuse & Warm Green (Medium)
Deep
Blue
Green:
Light or Sky Blue and Turquoise
Russian
Green:
1/2 Mixing Yellow & 1/2 Deep Blue Green
Shading
Green:
1/2 Dark Green & 1/2 Deep Blue Green
Brown
Green:
Black, Yellow & Chestnut Brown. Add a little Blue for variety.
Dark
Pompadour Red: To Pompadour add a
little
violet of iron
Pompadour:
Dull Red & gold
Heliotrope:
1/2 Deep Blue Green & 1/2 Violet
Heliotrope:
Pale Violet & Pale Pink
Turquoise:
Baby Blue & Apple Green
Holland
Blue:
Banding Blue, Black & Deep Blue
Green
Holland Blue: 4
Parts
Banding Blue, 1 part Deep Blue Green, 2 Parts Pearl Gray
Deft
Blue:
1/2 Copenhagen Blue, 1/2 Banding Blue
Copenhagen
Blue:
Light or Sky Blue & Black
Banding
Blue:
Dark Blue & Black
Banding
Blue:
1/2 Deep Blue Green & 1/2 Violet of Gold
Darkest
Blue:
1/2 Banding Blue & 1/2 Deep Blue Green
Mahogany:
Dull Red & Ruby
Dark
Red
Wine:
American Beauty & just add a little Pompadour
Dark
Rose:
Soft Rose & Blood Red
Dark
Red
Rose:
To Rose, add Deep Purple until you get the desired color
Blackberry:
Ruby & Black
Darkest
Purple:
1/2 Pansy Purple, 1/2 Dunkel Violet, & Purple - just a little
Black.
Black
Grape:
Black & Blue Violet
Crimson
Purple:
1/2 Ruby, 1/2 Deep Violet of Gold
Crimson
Glory:
1/3 Elderberry, 1/3 Rich Fuschia Rose & 1/3 American Beauty
Yellow
Red:
Carnation & Yellow Gold
Dark
Yellow
Brown:
To Yellow Brown add a dot of Capuchin Brown
Chestnut
Brown:
1/3 Yellow Red, 1/3 Yellow Brown, 1/3 Capuchin Brown
Orange:
1/3 Albert Yellow, 1/3 Yellow Brown & 1/3 Yellow Red
Light
Orange:
1/2 Yellow & 1/2 Yellow Red
Red
Orange:
Light Pompadour & Violet of Iron until desired shade
Ivory:
Pale Yellow & Grey
Deep
Orange:
Light Pompadour & Yellow Brown until desired shade
White
Rose:
Yellow Brown & Brown Green
Coral:
To Rose add Yellow Brown until desired shade
Rust:
Yellow Brown - add Ruby till desired shade
Salmon:
Mixing Yellow & Rose until desired shade
Grey
Green:
Mixing Yellow I& Grey or Albert Yellow & Banding Blue
Deep
Grey:
Violet of Iron & Shading Green
Soft
Grey:
Pink & Baby Blue
Rust
Background:
Violet of Iron & Yellow Brown
Pretty Pink for "Roses" can be gotten by using very little Pompadour. This must look red with NO BROWN in it.
A touch of Black Green against a pink rose gives it life.
A Delicate Pink can be had by using Blood Red ever so sparingly.
Another Pretty Pink tone results by a very thin wash of Pompadour Red over fired Best Pink.
Rose Pompadour applied in a thin coating will give a delicate pink tint. IF properly fired, the tint will be a soft pint, smooth but a brilliant color.
Copenhagen Blue is a complimentary color of pink.
NEVER USE PINK HEAVILY. It will fire improperly. The depth
must be obtained by repeated applications of color and firing in
between.
PINKS - when under fired are yellowish. RUBY - when under
fired
is brownish.
"If over fired" - PINKS & RUBIES take on a violet tone.
A striking RED ROSE is the result of combining Blood Red & Ruby
for highlights and a bit of Black
in darker areas. Soft Pink washed lightly over the light areas
will soften the tone.
To make a DARK RED ROSE -- paint with Darkest Green, then paint or dust with Ruby.
A touch of Ruby Purple mixed with the Carmines for the center of roses and Deep Shading Green, softens the pink, and is not as liable to change color in firing.
In painting WHITE OR PINK ROSES, use Primrose or Albert Yellow in thin washes over the petal tips. Grey the Yellows with Brown Green for deep shadows.
For tinting use 2 parts Yellow Brown and 1 part Pearl Grey.
A good green tint try 1 part Russian Green, 1 part Yellow Green, 2 parts Ivory Yellow and 1 part Yellow Brown.
If greens are too vivid after firing, try using a light wash of Yellow Brown: For darker leaves use a light wash of Black Brown.
Yellow Brown is a good color for softening greens and used as a foundation tint for leaves. It will fire lighter than Ochre. A light wash over Lavender and Blues will soften them and not turn them green in firing.
Red or Yellow mixed with Copenhagen Gray gives a warm tint on foliage when sun is shining.
Dark Red Brown & Deep Blue in brush is a lovely shadow for violets.
A mixture of White Shadow & Copenhagen Blue make a pretty Blue Grey for painting White Flowers, Horses, etc.
Ruby mixed with Russian Green makes good shadows.
ALWAYS KEEP GREY ON PALETTE - It gives a good glaze.
Mixing GREEN WITH ALMOST ANY COLOR - will grey any color.
Grey will assume or take on the color next to it, but grey next to Red will look sort of "greenish". Grey next to green will look "pinkish.
Blue Green & Rose Red (an iron color) are beautiful together for deep shadows near the point of interest.
PURPLES need grinding. but if you still have trouble, you can load your brush first with Pearl Grey or Air Blue before going into Purple.
RUBY COLORS should not be over-worked. Apply and leave alone!
Violet of Iron is red. Violet of gold is Purple.
"In case your colors come from the kiln dull and without a glaze - they can be restored by mixing 1 part flux very thoroughly with 3 parts of color, diluting with fresh turpentine: then apply a thin delicate wash over the design. Do not go beyond the limit of the painted area.
BLACK PAINT; often chips if applied too heavily. To avoid this, use anise oil with your color and thin with turpentine.
Use Yellow under Black.
Black, if not applied correctly, will fire flat and unattractive. To prevent this, sandwich Black on your brush before firing. Pick up a color, then Black and back into color. Then apply. Black sandwiched with Purple or Banking Blue & Copenhagen Blue make beautiful blackberries.
TO HELP HOLD RED AGAINST YELLOW: try painting it black first, wiping out the desired highlights and fire. Now paint red over the black and color in the wipeouts with yellow.
Interesting Rose Stems & Thorns: 2/3 orange & 1/3 American Beauty
A beautiful Blush hue on Pears can be obtained by using 1 part
Yellow
Brown and 1 part Deep Blood Red.
To learn to China Paint ......go to "Classes" page or check out the online classes
for questions e-mail
at raccoonridge@artlover.com